Tim actually hates them so much he made me cut up all of the rental boards...
...and pile them up so other pop outs can see what to expect if they come around.
...the John Kalagian Team Challenge is no more. Its now the vinyl-wrapped popout Liquid Shredder team challenge. Guess who rides these boards? Nobody surfing in the team challenge is the correct answer. Just another example of how Folly Beach "jumped the shark". Is this how we honor John Kalagian, a man that many local surfers hold in such high regard is getting second billing to a foamy beginner board? I'm ashamed for the ESA. What's next, the Summer's Eve Wahine Challenge? I can't be certain, but I smell a douche...
Friday December 5th Surf Bar will be premiering the highly anticipated new movie from Lost 5' 5" x 19 1/4" REDUX. And guess what they've released it with two versions. An edited version for the younger crowd which will be shown at 7:00 pm and an unedited version which will be shown at 9:00 pm after all the kids have gone to bed. For those of you unfamiliar with the Folly hot spots, Surf Bar is located at 103 W Cooper Ave Folly Beach, SC 29439. Admission is free and there will be some give aways. So now that you know where it is make sure to make it out to enjoy "Chris Ward, Aaron Cormican, and Mason Ho putting sub 5’ 6” boards to their limits. Also featuring sections from Shane Beschen, Kolohe Andino, Dane Reynolds, Jordy Smith, Ryan Carlson and Ol’ Mr. SL9er himself." Check out the teaser trailer here.
...you can't see from here, but there's waves in that Pacific Ocean right there. Yeah, its been hell on the body surfing everyday, but I'm getting back in shape fast with lots of burritos and In-n-Out burger.
A grumpy local brought this little flash from the past by last Sunday. It is amazing how even back then this Country Surfboard circa early 70s was ahead of its time. Imagine a board in which the nose and tale are pretty close to indistinguishable. Maybe riding "switch" was popular back then.
This is the nose.
alright, now it is starting to make sense.
And here it is in all 9 feet of its retro glory. This board was definitely built for shredden some big heavy gnar. And it probably did until it was found in a trash pile in Maui.
...they said the cacti resemble people. I found my twin. New Mexico was awesome, AZ was cool too but Joshua Tree is tomorrow... At this point I've been on the road for 5 days, and I've surfed as much as you Folly Beachers. Much to my dismay, there is no wave pool in Arizona (I looked real hard) Next post in a few days, I gotta get the white sands of New Mexico out of my butt crack for now...
...Hoplite soldier that is, the Greek armored warriors. New Matuse wetsuits are in like Flynn and hella tight. I have a short sleeve full from them which is real nice and toasty. We got the 3/2/2 fullsuit model in the shop which is as warm as a 4/3. They're made from Geoprene which is limestone based and closed celled and also warm and light as fug. I highly recommend these suits and there are only about 10 in the shop, so don't sleep. Check mo info right'cha. My boy Joel Tudor is on the team too.
...and you get free parking because you park at the dome house. You got everything going for you, so don't ruin it for everyone else. Just because the fence got pushed down doesn't mean you should walk over the fragile dunes that took so long to be replenished. There are 2 walkways within 25 yards of where you park, so please use them. If not we'll get your tires ready for beach driving. It's only fair, especially when one of the vehicles is bio-diesel.
...enough to get mirroring "R." symbols tattooed on your blades? It's my last day at the shop today, so I'm going out with a bang.
My condolences to the Pringle family for their loss. Bill Pringle passed on last week as the result of a heart-attack. He was 57 years young.
Bill Pringle too some (10) friends and I to Costa Rica back in 2001. It was a life changing experience for me to see good waves in warm water, and prevailing offshore winds, and a trip I'll never forget. Bill also opened the Board Room surf shop, back around 2002 or so, so his kids would have their own surf shop to hang out in and learn about the industry. He did everything he could for his kids, Drew and Rory, including moving them to the North Shore of Oahu so they could further their surfing abilities. My heart goes out to the Pringle family and all of you that knew Bill.
...Oh, my, god. Becky, look at her butt. It is so big. She looks like, one of those rap guys' girlfriends.
Yeah, baby ... when it comes to swallow tails, Cosmo ain't got nothin' to do with my selection. 14 1/2 - 20 1/2 - 17? Ha ha, only if she's 5'10".
The Channel Islands Fishcuit, packin' 17 inches of back.
...Mike Watt kills the bass. No, not the fish, the guitar.
Liberty calls.
...it's also a few orange cones and a makeshift fence stooping you from the Holiday Inn drive-by surf check...
...and you would've seen this little roper if you got out and looked. Still barreling...No picture today. Just visualize standing in line for a couple hours and then going out and getting barreled, because that's what we did here today.
...men of all ages and facial hair status, we are amidst a great conundrum. The month of MOvember is here and butt cancer still walks among us. Let us use this month to bring awareness to this affliction of the prostate that will affect 1 in 6 of us card-carrying No-Ma'am members. Grow your mustache and carefully follow these rules:
I know its the 3rd already, but today is not too late to start. You must also register your mustache here (click) because its now a classifiable "deadly weapon" with the ladies.
...and here's a nice little quad by Will Allison, mower of foam and mustaches. Below Will models his exquisite piece, while Foster Folsom is diqualified for having "hair in the goat-tee zone", that's a no no, even if it wasn't in the rules.
I look forward to seeing all my Mo Bros in the line-up these next couple days. Enjoy the swell, and give a mustache a ride. It may save your life.
...the black cat = bad luck didn't pan out on this one. The MOIST Biscuit 'n' Gravy model was done and delivered in time for last Saturday's epic 1-day swell. I took Al Merrick's Biscuit outline and added some rocker allowing it to work in a wider range of conditions (because I know way more about shaping than Al...)
The owner has reported back "Its fast as f*** and just what I needed" which makes me happy. He surfs 9th block, and I live on 9th block, so the only way you could get more of a "local shaper" would be to shape it on the beach.
...check out this 6'10" quad fish by Todd Sutz. You got to be at least a deuce, duece and a half, to ride this thing. A little airbrush, a little resin tint... bada boom, you got yourself a big boy sled.
...Jacob Stackley turned the dirty 30 today, and Greg Elliot is 50 today, I think.
and by that I mean in the spirit of the great surf photographer Larry "Flame" Moore...
Check out both of their pages to see if you got any shots.
...so Saturday went off while I was out of town. You can thank me later. Franny pulls into a throaty one at the Washout, which sources say "made him emotional". Not as emotional as I was Sunday morning when I woke up to waist-high waves I bet. Rick Anson is claiming it was the biggest barrel he's ever seen anyone get at Folly. Was there any SUPers out this day?
Photo by Nancy Hussey. Check out Folly Waves for more.
...this should get you pumped to surf some lefts this weekend regardless of your political affiliation. Cory Lopez on a Monkfish shaped by Matt Biolos, specifically for this wave.
Check out more on the click
Drew at Puerto from DrewBrophy.com on Vimeo.
...unless you're a glutton for punishment. This is like showing up at Burnside with your razor scooter.
...custom art and shape from Marcio Zouvi and the boys over at Sharpeye Surfboard. If you can dream it up, they can pretty much put it on a surfboard nowadays, one way or another.
...calling this animal cruelty would be ridiculous. They're loving it, or they'd be bailing right away.
...how an East swell reading 5 feet @ 11 seconds can manage only a meager stomach-high peak every 20 minutes is beyond me. Maybe Surfline's Sean Collins reads the blog and can help me out.
...going a step beyond parabolic is a relatively new blank company called Prop. Based in San Diego, Prop looks to have 3 distinct types of EPS blanks according to their WEBSITE. 
...don't think I've ever seen the sun rise over a pasture and in the same day surfed under the moonlight. If I could grow a beard, I would've totally been the 4th Malloy brother yesterday.
...and been away from the interweb for 4 days. Slightly rejuvenated and back full steam ahead tomorrow. Until then, Kyle Busey has your front side air rightcha'.
...its a thin one. Just kidding, they padded it with a ton of extra ads. Congrats to Chris Brown with the cover shot by Jim Whitney. The shot truly captures the essence of South Carolina's waves: short and fat.
...George W. will be gone in January, so were making room for the 2009 models: A change we can believe in. Lots of new models from the big boys coming. We took $50-$100 off 2007 Channel Islands as well as a slew of other brands like...
...Allisons, Bill Johnsons, Chillis, Natural Art, Mark Richards, Seasoned, HIC, Bings...
...and my personal favorite ...LOST. Don't forget about our 90-day layaway too. Only $50 down will get you started.
...got this pretty sweet 10-foot BING Noserider 2 in recently, silver metallic resin tint...
...and some heavy duty nose concave. Despite my awesomely sarcastic surf report about longboarders and SUPers at the pier that some people enjoyed the other day (Follywaves Forum) some didn't find it amusing:
...Chris Brown off his plastic twin fin and onto a ...Lost Rocket. The proof is in the pudding.
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