Sunday, November 30, 2008

One down...

... one hundred more to go.
The mass manufactured pop-out surfboard brand known as Anacapa or more accurately Anacrapa is no more. While there may still be an Anacapa shop in Ventura, the boards are out of production. In case you are unfamiliar with the brand, Anacapa is a company that is owned by the nefarious Global Surf Industries. Capitalizing on the name of Al Merrick by using a few of his shapes, these boards are considered much inferior due to the use of unskilled labor and inferior materials.

Saturday, November 29, 2008

sorry john...

...the John Kalagian Team Challenge is no more. Its now the vinyl-wrapped popout Liquid Shredder team challenge. Guess who rides these boards? Nobody surfing in the team challenge is the correct answer. Just another example of how Folly Beach "jumped the shark". Is this how we honor John Kalagian, a man that many local surfers hold in such high regard is getting second billing to a foamy beginner board? I'm ashamed for the ESA. What's next, the Summer's Eve Wahine Challenge? I can't be certain, but I smell a douche...

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

What are you doing next Friday?

Why don't you see a movie?

Friday December 5th Surf Bar will be premiering the highly anticipated new movie from Lost 5' 5" x 19 1/4" REDUX. And guess what they've released it with two versions. An edited version for the younger crowd which will be shown at 7:00 pm and an unedited version which will be shown at 9:00 pm after all the kids have gone to bed. For those of you unfamiliar with the Folly hot spots, Surf Bar is located at 103 W Cooper Ave Folly Beach, SC 29439. Admission is free and there will be some give aways. So now that you know where it is make sure to make it out to enjoy "Chris Ward, Aaron Cormican, and Mason Ho putting sub 5’ 6” boards to their limits. Also featuring sections from Shane Beschen, Kolohe Andino, Dane Reynolds, Jordy Smith, Ryan Carlson and Ol’ Mr. SL9er himself." Check out the teaser trailer here.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

a room with a view... can't see from here, but there's waves in that Pacific Ocean right there. Yeah, its been hell on the body surfing everyday, but I'm getting back in shape fast with lots of burritos and In-n-Out burger.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Back To The Future

A grumpy local brought this little flash from the past by last Sunday. It is amazing how even back then this Country Surfboard circa early 70s was ahead of its time. Imagine a board in which the nose and tale are pretty close to indistinguishable. Maybe riding "switch" was popular back then.

This is the nose.

... or is this?
alright, now it is starting to make sense.
And here it is in all 9 feet of its retro glory. This board was definitely built for shredden some big heavy gnar. And it probably did until it was found in a trash pile in Maui.

P.S. in case you haven't noticed this isn't Ian. He is too busy surfing in California and has passed the ever-burning blog torch to me, Drew, and since I will be here in the surf starved city of Folly I will have plenty of time for posting.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

keeping that country western vibe going...

in case you forgot what I look like...

...they said the cacti resemble people. I found my twin. New Mexico was awesome, AZ was cool too but Joshua Tree is tomorrow... At this point I've been on the road for 5 days, and I've surfed as much as you Folly Beachers. Much to my dismay, there is no wave pool in Arizona (I looked real hard) Next post in a few days, I gotta get the white sands of New Mexico out of my butt crack for now...

Thursday, November 13, 2008

crank that soldier boy...

...Hoplite soldier that is, the Greek armored warriors. New Matuse wetsuits are in like Flynn and hella tight. I have a short sleeve full from them which is real nice and toasty. We got the 3/2/2 fullsuit model in the shop which is as warm as a 4/3. They're made from Geoprene which is limestone based and closed celled and also warm and light as fug. I highly recommend these suits and there are only about 10 in the shop, so don't sleep. Check mo info right'cha. My boy Joel Tudor is on the team too.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

you're young and have your youth...

...and you get free parking because you park at the dome house. You got everything going for you, so don't ruin it for everyone else. Just because the fence got pushed down doesn't mean you should walk over the fragile dunes that took so long to be replenished. There are 2 walkways within 25 yards of where you park, so please use them. If not we'll get your tires ready for beach driving. It's only fair, especially when one of the vehicles is bio-diesel.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

how much do you love your favorite mustache'd popout maker...

...enough to get mirroring "R." symbols tattooed on your blades? It's my last day at the shop today, so I'm going out with a bang.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Rest in Peace Bill Pringle...

My condolences to the Pringle family for their loss. Bill Pringle passed on last week as the result of a heart-attack. He was 57 years young.

Bill Pringle too some (10) friends and I to Costa Rica back in 2001. It was a life changing experience for me to see good waves in warm water, and prevailing offshore winds, and a trip I'll never forget. Bill also opened the Board Room surf shop, back around 2002 or so, so his kids would have their own surf shop to hang out in and learn about the industry. He did everything he could for his kids, Drew and Rory, including moving them to the North Shore of Oahu so they could further their surfing abilities. My heart goes out to the Pringle family and all of you that knew Bill.

Friday, November 07, 2008

baby got back...

...Oh, my, god. Becky, look at her butt. It is so big. She looks like, one of those rap guys' girlfriends.

Yeah, baby ... when it comes to swallow tails, Cosmo ain't got nothin' to do with my selection. 14 1/2 - 20 1/2 - 17? Ha ha, only if she's 5'10".
The Channel Islands Fishcuit, packin' 17 inches of back.

Thursday, November 06, 2008

what's in a name...

...apparently nothing because this kid named Ian rips.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

a fitting tune for today's mood...

...Mike Watt kills the bass. No, not the fish, the guitar.

Liberty calls.

denial isn't just a river in Egypt...'s also a few orange cones and a makeshift fence stooping you from the Holiday Inn drive-by surf check...

...and you would've seen this little roper if you got out and looked. Still barreling...

Tuesday, November 04, 2008


No picture today. Just visualize standing in line for a couple hours and then going out and getting barreled, because that's what we did here today.

Monday, November 03, 2008

don't PROcraSTinATE... of all ages and facial hair status, we are amidst a great conundrum. The month of MOvember is here and butt cancer still walks among us. Let us use this month to bring awareness to this affliction of the prostate that will affect 1 in 6 of us card-carrying No-Ma'am members. Grow your mustache and carefully follow these rules:

  • On day "Mo-1" (October 31), the complete moustache region, including the entire upper lip and the handlebar zones, must be completely shaved.
  • For the entire duration of Movember (Movember 1 - 31 inclusive), no hair shall be allowed to grow in the goatee zone - being any facial area below the bottom lip.
  • There is to be no joining of the moustache to sideburns.
  • Failure to conform to all of these rules may, at the discretion of the official Movember Committee, result in instant blacklisting and may void invitation to the Mo Ball.
  • Movember Committee accepts no responsibility for lost jobs, rashes, food/beer encrustments or any other such mishaps caused to the wearer (or his partner) of a Movember Moustache. You grew it yourself.

I know its the 3rd already, but today is not too late to start. You must also register your mustache here (click) because its now a classifiable "deadly weapon" with the ladies.

...and here's a nice little quad by Will Allison, mower of foam and mustaches. Below Will models his exquisite piece, while Foster Folsom is diqualified for having "hair in the goat-tee zone", that's a no no, even if it wasn't in the rules.
I look forward to seeing all my Mo Bros in the line-up these next couple days. Enjoy the swell, and give a mustache a ride. It may save your life.