Thursday, April 17, 2008

first wave of the set...

...is usually not only the smallest and worst in terms of shape...

...and a rough paddle out often follows this wave...

...including duck-diving 3-4 feet of whitewater coming at you full speed while your in 2 feet of water on top of rock reef, like 6 times in a row, if you're lucky. Patience is a virtue.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

I hate surfing reef! Am I a pu**y?

Anonymous said...

Do you really want an answer to that question?

Oceans Rising said...

Yeah, it's worth it to wait it out. Especially in the East Pacific when riding a Southern Hemisphere generated swell. Pick your wave