...if you got up real early to check it, and turned around and went home, well... you blew it. Solid swell in the water didn't show much before 6AM but its head-high on the sets now. Get it.Friday, July 11, 2008
dawn patrol...
...if you got up real early to check it, and turned around and went home, well... you blew it. Solid swell in the water didn't show much before 6AM but its head-high on the sets now. Get it.
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21 comments:
Oh, lament!
Crowds, they shall arrive by the call of the blog.
What's tomorrow looking like?
It's going to suck...stay home.
yeah, it'll be flat by morning
Was out from 9am to 7pm with a mid day break for lunch. Finally a few waves with some punch. The day had it all from low tide close out barrels to high tide workable faces. The afternoon had some SW afternoon seabreeze, but it still was fun. That storm blew in later but it was still fun up until 6:45pm when the wind kick in and chopped it up and the tide was backing out again. Got a good sunburn (even with sunblock) but had fun. There were numerous beginners out that were creating some inside navigational hazards. They always seem to show up at the main peak paddling around on some garage sale fun board with its nose pointing skyward when being paddled. Well, at least they can brag to their friends in the midwest that they were surfing hurricane swells and be a hero in BFE Kansas. I hope all you bloggers got a few good ones at least. Especially Grumpy. Hey Ian...did you surf in the morning or/and evening?
yeah, we know. we were here too. but thanks for the recap.
btw...you missed it during your mid gay lunch. kook.
ian, can i surf you tomorrow?
love,
haole!!!!!
All right fuck it, won't be posting here anymore. Too many jerks.
I surfed right next to Grumpy all morning. He was ripping as usual, and I picked up his scraps.
i got a chance to finally hit the pier during peak times.... really sharky yesterday... felt them ... saw them... really nice surfers out there... everybody hooting the other on.. i think i might have been around grumps too... saw a lifeguard get swallowed by a set and his life saveing vehicle pushed back to the beach.... nice entertainment for the few of us out there... i will say the ocean handled me yesterday at least but i own the knee high waves... ha ha ha
GRUMPY is the man.....
I woke up a little late today and went to the beach access for my house....freaking at least 75 people already out....all fighting for peaks. So I followed the grumpsters secret tip from a while back. Same size, no one out....just me and my kid and then a guy somewhat older than me....freaking pristine, glassy and no attitude....totally worth the five minute drive!!! LOL
Oh and djjahd, you need to come out with me....you'll be the freaking man by comparison....because while it was perfect (by Folly standards), I still managed to eat crap on about 70% of my waves...
i ate crap half the time as well.... even some of the better surfers ate it a few... i felt like the face of the wave was at 90 degrees and coldn't take off at an angle.... probably because my arms felt like a bowl of jello.... see thats what happens when you get used to ankle snappers all summer....
Beware of prophets dressed like gas staion attendands.
who can't spell
No worries, I beware of all prophets....whether they can spell or not.
Nonetheless grumpy, your "spot" was spot on this a.m.
"...I still managed to eat crap on about 70% of my waves..."
Yeah it was so big and gnarly out there! I mean like 2-3' occ bigger. They should think about holding the Eddie here this year. World Class...really!!!
...and to haole...
gather up your toys, your mommy is at the main office waiting to take you home. Sorry the other kids were picking on you.
I'm sorry to everyone (especially Haole). I'm an a$$hole. Maybe I should change my name from "the" anonymousE to, well, just a$$hole. Because that's what I am and that's what I feel like. So, in an effort to be friends again, I'd like to share my "sesh" with you and all of the other blog riders out there. I really liked the double-up take offs (of all things) the most. Thought I might eat shat 7% of the time. JK. But anyway, I'll try not to be so cynical. I think you are trying. Sorry again, poor Ian doesn't deserve this. I'm the one who should leave. Anoymouse hates himself, and this all must end. Goodnight anonymouse, you can be unborn, you can unspend love.
i hate that anonymouse.
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