Friday, June 06, 2008

increase your shin count...

...while surfing some really good waves yesterday, the rider off this board bailed off the back of a wave while his leash and my shin stopped the board from going to the beach. (no real damage done because the board was made in Thailand, and my shin was built tough in the good ol' U.S. of A.) The board below almost hit me and my student a few times last night for the same reason. Thanks to their unique color ways and airbrushes I was able to find pictures of the exact same boards on the interweb...

...but the popouts are not the real problems here, it is the people riding them. And its not just people riding popouts either, its a lot of people that are surfing on whatever. (Kind of strange I was being targeted by popouts though.) The problem is the leash, or the training wheels of surfing.

The surf leash allows these people to "charge" when they're not in the right take-off spot and not properly kick out of a wave letting their leash keep them from swimming after their error. Their extreme surfing style puts more people in danger than people who are not wearing leashes. The leash is to be used as a secondary board controlling device, the primary being you. By committing yourself to completing a wave under control, instead of diving over the back while your board shoots toward the inside, you'll actually improve your skill level. Just like skateboarding, it doesn't count unless you roll out. Same goes for longboarders who noseride until the nose sinks and then fall off: it doesn't count and it looks stupid. Roll out.

Now I'm not going to suggest you break the "surfboards and dogs must be leashed at all times" law of Folly Beach, because as you can see below its taken very seriously around here...

...but realize that in the long run, not relying on your leash will make you a better surfer.

A certain old-time surfer once stated, "No, I refuse to use a leash. So I swim all the time. The thing that the leash has done is its brought up this quantity mindset. But to me it’s not how many waves you got; it’s how many good waves you got. To me the leash has ruined surfing."

17 comments:

grumpy local said...

There were good waves yesterday?

Ian... said...

I was being facetious.

Anonymous said...

amen to that

Chris said...

Nicely Put

Patti said...

Can I have a "no pop-outs" sticker for my knee, please?

Ian... said...

Sure, we can do a whole ACE bandage style wrap out of stickers.

djjahd said...

so... what if you dont act like an idiot when there is other people around you.. but you like your leash.. i dont agree with the term training wheels. i do remember my dads leash... it was basically a freakin bungee cord... talk about dangerous... i like my leash, but i think i will try to have a session without it and see how much i really do suck!!!

Old Kook said...

I'd like to propose an idea.

How about we have a "idiot" section and a "non idiot" sectioning of the beach!!!

It's hot as balls...there's no surf, but I decide to at least walk down to the beach, just to take a swim. It was so overrun by d-heads, I didn't even bother. How bad is it when I won't even go to take a swim. Banning alcohol on the beach??? I'm totally for it at this point. Add to it my driveway being blocked today by some jackass who HAS a FB parking sticker.

Okay I'm done venting. Everyone have a wonderful week.

djjahd said...

i could only get an "idiot" pass.... damnit... i got a "hood" pass and i thought i was shit.... maybe next time!

Anonymous said...

the green one's sick!!!does it come in a 7'6"??? How much?

grumpy local said...

If your leashless board hits me or my kid, know that I will own it, then and there... or you can pay the 800 dollar fine when the cops show up, because I will press charges.

I can safely say, the best surfer on Folly Beach, a guy who has won a few Eastern championships even, always wears a leash.

J.P. said...

Always surf like you don't have a leash when you wear one. Hold onto your board even if you have a leash. Stop kicking your board into the air after the closeout. Don't bail your board in front of people. etc.

anonymouse said...

does the green on come with a rope?

Jimmy Slade said...

The interweb? Is that the mesh lining found inside my new corona boardshorts?

I wear a leash, ride a pop out and wear boardshorts with an "interweb". I figure if I paddle out looking like a total deusch bag Ian will keep his self-rightous surf lessons to himself.

Jimmy "illiterate" Slade said...

spelling errors suck. Always proofread.

Ian... said...

jimmy "queer eye for the straight guy" slade, did you mean "deutsch" bag? Like the German fanny packs? I love those things.

Jimmy Slade said...

As long as your wearing it with a mesh tanktop your gonna be ok in my book.