Friday, October 01, 2010

broken glass everywhere...

What do you do when you show up at work at 7Am only to find that the building was broken into the night before? Watch the surf contest via WIFI in the parking lot until the cops sort out the mess.

6-8 foot pumping France beach break is good stuff. Nothing better than watching the pros get flogged by heaving, grinding waves that could possibly be Folly Beach on 10 cycles of steroids. Next to Kelly's ridiculous comeback in round 4, this heat on screen was my favorite as Owen Wright broke 3 boards in 15 minutes.

Looks like we've all been getting barreled for the last week or so in shifty beach breaks on both coasts, so get it while you can cause nothing lasts forever!!


Anonymous said...

In my opinion ,going back too long , this might just be the best September ever , and yesterday and today was about as good as it gets. How did this storm , swell # 8 or so for the month ,get so goood?

I.R. said...

That's the beauty of a storm that moves straight up and off the coast. It pumps swell in and sucks the winds offshore at the same time. As one of my old coworkers back in the restaurant days would say, "You gotta parlay the delay, get that chicken workin' it. Suckin' and blowin' at the same."